FAQs
What to Do If Your Awning Is Stuck and Won't Open or Close
A stuck awning is usually down to one of three things: a motor fault, a mechanical blockage, or a limit switch that’s gone out of calibration.
None of these are uncommon, especially after a period of heavy wind, extended non-use, or a power cut.
Most causes can be sorted at home without calling anyone out.
What You’ll Need
Tools
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Soft cloth or brush
- Step ladder (stable, rated for your height)
- Multimeter (optional, for checking motor power)
Materials / Replacement Parts
- Awning-grade lubricant or silicone spray (not WD-40)
- Replacement fuse (check your motor’s spec, usually 5A or 10A)
- Awning motor or control unit (if fault is confirmed)
- Replacement limit switch (if recalibration fails)
How to Fix It: Step-by-Step
Step 1: Try the Manual Override First
Before touching anything else, check whether the awning can be operated by hand. Most motorised awnings have a manual crank port, usually located on the motor housing or side arm.
- Locate the manual override socket (check your product manual if you’re not sure where it is)
- Insert the crank handle and try to move the fabric in either direction
- If it moves freely, the problem is electrical, not mechanical
- If it won’t budge at all, or grinds when you try, the issue is physical
This single test tells you which direction to go. Don’t skip it.
Step 2: Check for Obstructions and Physical Damage
A stuck awning is often just a stuck awning. Debris builds up in the arms and along the roller tube, especially after bad weather.
- Visually inspect both arms for bent joints, cracked brackets, or seized pivot points
- Check the roller tube for trapped debris or fabric that’s wound unevenly
- Look along the full width of the awning for anything caught in the mechanism
- If you see fabric bunched at one end, do not force it. Unwind it gently by hand before trying to operate again
Bent arm brackets are a common cause that gets overlooked. If one arm is visibly out of alignment, the motor will cut out to protect itself.
Step 3: Reset the Motor and Check the Power Supply
Motor faults are the most common cause of a complete failure to open or close. A lot of them are solved by a simple power reset.
- Switch off power to the awning at the wall or isolator switch
- Wait 30 seconds, then restore power
- Try the remote or switch again
- If it still won’t respond, check the fuse in the motor or the control panel
- Replace the fuse if blown and test again
- If the motor hums but doesn’t move, the motor itself may have seized or burned out and will need replacing
On remote-controlled awnings, also check whether the remote needs repairing to the motor after a reset. Hold the open and close buttons simultaneously for five seconds while within range.
Step 4: Recalibrate the Limit Switches
If the awning moves a little then stops, or opens but won’t close (or vice versa), the limit switches have likely drifted out of position. These are small sensors that tell the motor when to stop at the open and closed positions.
- Refer to your awning’s manual for the specific recalibration process (it varies by brand and model)
- Most involve holding a button combination on the motor or control box while manually moving the fabric to the correct position
- Set the open limit first, then the closed limit
- Test with a full open-close cycle before considering it done
If recalibration doesn’t hold, or the switches themselves are damaged, they can be replaced. Most are clip-in parts available directly from the awning manufacturer.
