FAQs
Why Are My Faux Wood Blinds Uneven or Crooked
Faux wood blinds go crooked for a few predictable reasons, wonky bracket installation, cord tension issues, or a slat that’s slipped out of position during use.
It’s rarely a sign of a defective blind. In most cases, you can sort it in under 20 minutes without any specialist tools.
What You’ll Need
Tools
- Spirit level
- Screwdriver (flathead and Phillips)
- Stepladder or sturdy chair
Materials / Replacement Parts
- Replacement ladder cord or tape (if worn or snapped)
- Replacement lift cord (if frayed or tangled beyond repair)
- Spare headrail brackets (if cracked or loose)
- Pencil for re-marking fixing points if re-drilling is needed
How to Fix It: Step-by-Step
Step 1: Check the Headrail Brackets
This is the most common cause of a crooked blind, and the easiest to miss. If one bracket is sitting even a few millimetres higher than the other, the whole blind will hang at an angle.
- Take the blind down by releasing it from the brackets (most snap open with a firm press on the clip)
- Hold a spirit level against the bracket fixing points on the wall or frame
- If one is out of level, unscrew it, fill the existing holes, re-mark the correct position, and refix
- Make sure both brackets are seated at the same depth as well as height; a bracket pushed further into a recess on one side will tilt the headrail
Step 2: Inspect the Ladder Cords or Tapes
The ladder cords (or fabric tapes on wider blinds) run vertically and hold each slat in position. If one gets twisted, knotted, or pulled tighter on one side, the slats will sit at different angles or the blind will look stepped.
- With the blind flat on a table or floor, lay out all the slats and check each ladder cord runs straight from top to bottom
- Look for any slat that’s jumped out of its rung or is sitting at an odd angle compared to its neighbours
- If cords are twisted, work from the bottom up, gently separating each rung until the twist clears
- Badly frayed or snapped cords will need replacing; measure the cord length and width before ordering replacements
Step 3: Re-thread or Untangle the Lift Cord
The lift cord runs through a hole in each slat and controls the raise and lower function. If it’s pulled unevenly or has slipped out of a guide hole in one or more slats, the blind will bunch on one side when raised.
- With the blind fully lowered, look along the cord from the bottom rail upwards; it should pass cleanly through the centre of each slat hole
- If a cord has slipped to the side of a hole rather than through it, you’ll need to thread it back through; a bent paperclip or thin wire hook makes this easier
- Check the cord lock mechanism in the headrail isn’t jammed or holding tension unevenly; a quick press and release while gently pulling each cord should free minor jams
- If the cord is frayed at the knot inside the bottom rail, untie it, trim the frayed end, and re-knot
Step 4: Rehang, Test, and Level
Before you consider the job finished, test every function of the blind, not just the one that was playing up.
- Rehang the blind into the brackets and click them shut
- Raise and lower the blind three or four times to check the slats stack evenly and the bottom rail lifts without leaning
- Tilt the slats open and closed via the wand or cord; if they’re still not sitting level, check step 2 again because a slat has likely jumped its rung during rehanging
- If the blind raises evenly but still hangs at a slight angle, get a second person to hold it while you recheck the bracket level with the blind under its own weight
